Anonymous asked: Keeping up with the jacket talk, whats your take on different brands.. i see you like ariston, do you find different brands and fabrics hold up better then others overtime? ie. do you find ariston stuff lasting longer then some other mill you've tried? by lasting i mean in terms of it still retaining shape, can handle dry cleaning multiple times, and is still wearable over the years..i saw you commented on the fused stuff, i find anything fused to not last as long.
For the benefit of those interested, and perhaps to fuel debate for those in the know, let’s point out the difference between fused and full-hand canvased.
Full-hand / Floating canvased jackets have an additional wool/horsehair layer sewn in, and essentially determines the shape, fit and structural integrity of the jacket.
Fusing uses a synthetic interlining which, when heated adheres to the exterior fabric and determines the shape this way.
The easiest way to tell is to pinch an inch of the jackets fabric and pull. If you feel two layers, you’ve got fused - three - it’s canvased.
Fusing is considered inferior to canvasing because the glue is far more succeptible to damage, and will often dissolve quickly from forces of nature (rain), and from forces of wear - which will then clot and blister, and your jacket will lose its structural integrity.
In terms of Fabril mills, i’ve only had experience with Ariston, Loro Piana and Zegna and unfortunately it’s difficult for me to compare; All my delicates come from Ariston, while my work horses will come from Loro Piana/Zegna.
I will say this though, Loro Piana’s 4 seasons is a stand out high-performer.
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