MODERN ARTILLERY

My experience at Longrain, and my subsequent write up is as confused as the “Modern Thai” food offering itself.

The once two hatted restaurant (one of which has since been stripped) resides in a seriously cool old warehouse conversion. The downstairs basement, now a trendy bar, while up top is now the restaurant.

On entry, and noting no bookings are taken for less than 6, a waiter takes your name - and only your name, estimates a waiting time to be seated (for us they estimated an hour and a half) and directs you to the bar.

Downstairs is a whole different scene to that on entry. Staff are draped in camo, a vinyl-spinning DJ plays the likes of the cure, mixed with minimal tech undertones, so typical of Berlin-based DJs, and the bar food to keep your hunger at bay during the hour-and-a-half wait is seriously top notch.

It’s no wonder why people come here in swarms just for the cocktail bar. The unique thai influence provides a wonderful twist on some old favorites.

The ‘Longrain Iced Tea’ for example - served in a china teapot - adds sophistication to your typical long island, with the addition of thai spices, and was a fantastic easy drink.

One hour later, the same waiter correctly identifies you from the short meeting upstairs, confidently calls you by name, and takes you to your table. TABs made downstairs are quickly and easily transferred to the upstairs restaurant for your convenience.

Once upstairs, you’re taken to communal dining area - one long stretch table means you’re never far from interesting conversation with new people - and new friends.

Kenzo’s first comment once upstairs was “There are no Asians.” Now we’ve both lived in South-East-Asia, and know this is never a good sign if you’re after Authentic S.E.Asian cuisine. We did however walk in knowing this was not your typical Thai eatery.

The food was interesting. We decided to steer away from the Thai Curry’s (best left to the Thai) and tried a few interesting dishes, like the whole snapper pictured.

I found the spices to be a little confusing at times, and to be honest, I never saw any symmetry between dishes,and flavours. And too often I found myself neutralizing flavours (and the saltiness) in their Thai inspired “Te’jito” (another great cocktail).

It was interesting how the bar - which was essentially a waiting room to be seated - could be so outstanding, with the staff - even better, only to be somewhat let down by the food once you’ve been seated.

Give them a try though, I know i’ll be back - if only to give some clarity to my thoughts.

IA